Oil leaking from the front swivel housings
Will get worse if left.
Symptoms
Oily film or drips on the chrome swivel balls and inside of the front wheels, low oil level in the swivel housing, possible oil on brake shoes or discs.
Likely cause
Worn or perished swivel seals, usually made worse by pitting or rust on the chrome swivel ball which cuts the new seal quickly.
Suggested fixes
Listed roughly in the order most owners try them.
- 1
Replace the swivel seal kit
Remove the seal retaining plate, fit a new seal, felt and retainer. Clean the ball thoroughly first. Refill with the correct oil (EP90 on Series and early coil sprung) or one-shot semi-fluid grease on later Defenders.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate DIY
- Cost:
- £ (Under about £50 in parts)
- 2
Replace the chrome swivel ball
If the chrome is pitted or peeling a new seal will only last a few hundred miles. Fitting a new ball means stripping the hub, stub axle and swivel housing, so most people renew the swivel pin bearings at the same time.
- Difficulty:
- Experienced DIY
- Cost:
- ££ (About £50 to £300)
- 3
Check and reset the swivel preload
Excess play rocks the housing on the ball and opens up the seal. Set the preload with shims to the workshop manual figure, measured with a spring balance at the track rod arm.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate DIY
- Cost:
- £ (Under about £50 in parts)
- 4
Switch to semi-fluid grease
A common owner fix on vehicles that weep constantly. Fill the housing with one-shot semi-fluid grease, which is much less likely to escape past a slightly worn seal. Not a cure for a badly pitted ball.
- Difficulty:
- Easy DIY
- Cost:
- £ (Under about £50 in parts)
This is general guidance gathered from owner experience and workshop practice, not a substitute for a workshop manual or a qualified mechanic. Costs are rough parts-only guides. Brakes, steering and suspension work affects safety, so if in doubt have it checked professionally.
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